When Marie Antoinette took a sudden

Ladies had certainly to endure in these days to realize what they have been happy to name the attractive, and it’s fairly a aid to recollect the second when Marie Antoinette took a sudden caprice to look with out hoops in a tender satin robe with large sleeves, which set the style in London in addition to in France. For a short while solely, nevertheless, such moderation dominated, and the hoops got here again bigger than ever in 1784, when the Duchess of Cumberland swept the ground in 5 yards of brocade, and a stomacher blazing stiffly with jewels.

The pastoral simplicity of the Petit Trianon ought to have actually made extra lasting impression than it did. For the Court docket women performed at milkmaids beneath the rule of their farmer Queen, and churned butter with their very own truthful fingers, and located a large discipline for dainty disguises in rustic and ruinous simplicity.

The peasant ladies’ attire of stuffs and muslin have been glorified by wealthy silks and muslin and challis decked with lace fichus and topped with rose-coloured and be-ribboned straw hats, and embroidered holland and Persian cambric have been affected economies no inexpensive than the maize-coloured silk and striped inexperienced and white satin of avowed prodigality. The Trianon was a contented hunting-ground for flirtation, however that’s one other story, certainly an awesome many ; but it surely served too as a pretext for innumerable new frocks, and the colour-prints of the time convincingly show the dainty prospects afforded by the artifice of simplicity allied to a pleasant style in ribbons.

The times of Marie Antoinette

We have now to return to the times of Marie Antoinette for a observe which aroused some curiosity and amusement when a dressmaker in London final yr was fired with a want to revive it. Robes have been invested with the facility to specific particular emotion, and Moliere held the notion as much as ridicule in his well-known Pre’cieuses. Lengthy slender footwear with the seam on the heel, whose socket was studded with jewels, have been referred to as venez-y-voir ; and this suggestion of forwardness was once more evident in a ribbon which glided by the identify of “ marked consideration.” Different absurdities usually quoted have been the robe generally known as the ‘ stifled sigh,” trimmed with “superfluous regrets, and the cap of “ assured conquest,” and a muff of “ momentary agitation.”

In the direction of the top of the reign of Louis XVI. the low head-dress got here into trend, the quick curls being gathered right into a knot of ribbon or “ catogan,” and the truthful moderated their transports for powdered hair which had abundantly obtained in white, reddish blonde, and gray.

 

Advertisements

The brothers became envious

TALE III.

I heard of a king’s son, who was low in stature and ill-favoured, while all his brothers have been tall and good-looking. As soon as on a time, his father checked out him with disgust, which the son had sagacity sufficient to find, and stated, “ zero father ! a brief man, who is sensible, is preferable to him who’s tall and ignorant, Not all the pieces is valued in response to its peak; the sheep is clear, and the elephant an unclean animal. Sinai is among the most inconsiderable mountains of the earth, however verily it’s the best earlier than God in rank and dignity. Have you ever heard, what was stated in the future by a clever lean man to a fats blockhead? One Arab horse, although lean, is preferable to a secure stuffed with asses.” The daddy laughed, the courtiers applauded, and the brothers have been mortified to the very soul. Till a person hath spoken, his defects and his talent are hid. Think about not each desert to be empty, for maybe a tiger could also be there asleep.

I heard that at the moment a strong enemy appeared in opposition to the King, and when the 2 armies met, the primary one who impelled his horse into the motion was this younger Prince, calling out, “ I’m not him, whose again you shall see within the day of battle, however my head could also be present in mud and blood ; for whosoever fighteth the battle staketh his personal life ; and he who flieth, sporteth with the blood of his troops.” Having thus stated, he attacked the troops of the enemy, and overthrew a number of males of renown. When he got here to his father, he bowed right down to the earth and stated, “ zero ye, to whom my type appeared contemptible with out contemplating the drive of my valour, within the day of battle the slender steed is beneficial, and never the fattened ox.”

It’s reported, that the enemy having many troops, and this facet however few, a physique of the latter have been giving approach, upon which the Prince vociferated, “ Exert yourselves like males, that ye could not put on the costume of ladies.” The troopers, animated by this speech, joined within the basic assault, and are reported to have gained the victory over the adversary on that day. The King kissed his head and eyes, and folded him in his arms, and his affection in the direction of him elevated every day, until at size he appointed him his successor.

The brothers grew to become envious, and put poison into his meals. His sister seeing this from a window, flapped to the shutters ; and he understanding the sign, withdrew his hand from the dish, and exclaimed, “ If the clever ought to be disadvantaged of life, it could be unimaginable for the unskilful to produce their place. Nobody would go below the shade of the owl, if the Homai was annihilated from the earth.” They knowledgeable the daddy of the circumstances, who despatched for the brothers, and after rebuking them correctly, he gave to every of them an acceptable portion of his kingdom, that each one explanation for strife and bickering would possibly subside. It has been noticed, that ten Durweshes could sleep upon one blanket, however that one kingdom can not include two Kings. If a pious man eatetli half a loaf of bread, he bestoweth the opposite half on the poor. If a king possesseth the dominion of an entire local weather, he longeth to have the identical enjoyment of one other.

 

The royal conservatism of her gracious Majesty

This jogs my memory to notice the royal conservatism of her gracious Majesty Queen Alexandra, who follows vogue at a dignified distance, lending her candy private enchantment to our view of her antedated hairstyle, with its raised curls over her forehead pointing barely to the centre of the brow. Royalty not seeks to guide fashions, nor, certainly, to observe them, the one exceptions to the rule of generality being the royal women of the homes of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha and of Connaught, who all present a most pleasant appreciation of, and a turning into sympathy with, each vagary of La Mode. But our supreme Royalty takes curiosity within the nationwide facet of the affairs of costume, and bestows a lot private bother in arousing loyalty in direction of Irish poplins, British-made silks, the tweed industries of Eire and Scotland and Wales, and the lace manufactures of Devonshire and Bucks and Nottingham.

The shirt and the teagown of to-day date their inception from the final century, however the beneficent legislation of evolution concedes them the grace of novelty, even whereas dogma tediously reiterates “There may be nothing new below the solar.”

In costume the Victorian period

In costume the Victorian period was “ All the things- arian,” welcoming and discarding all shapes and kinds of clothes, and gathering within the fashions from all ages, adopting with gentle enthusiasm and moderated transport probably the most sleek and probably the most graceless, and impartially bestowing consideration upon the slashed and puffed sleeves of the Tudors, the lace collar and large ruff of the Stuarts, the Watteau costume, re-christened “Dolly Varden,” the quick waists of the Empire, the total coats and enormous revers of the Directoire, and the lengthy plumes and sensible buckles of the seventeenth century.

An injustice to the phrase aesthetic was dedicated by the followers of a vogue which cried aloud for unhappy colors, sadder shapes, and the saddest untidiness ; and amongst the ridiculous errors could also be written down a polonaise costume looping up in surprising locations, flounced and furbelowed with out bounds of cause, whereas extending itself from the waist over an immense bustle. There may be satisfaction in remembering the response which occurred after this in favour of the eelskin costume, setting as tightly as was handy from neck to heel, when the woven jersey-bodice had a brief spell of patronage, however, proving itself suavely unsympathetic in its remedy of any however the excellent determine, lapsed speedily into disuse. About 1882 the questionable charms of the bustle reasserted themselves, and the Watteau fashion of frock exercised some helpful affect over the waist of its truthful wearer.

 

A peasant woman of Asturias

A peasant lady of Asturias is distinguished by a full skirt beneath the knees, and a brief slim apron of black velvet traced with a checked design in silver braid. A joyously-patterned cotton hand-kerchief is organized on the top, and tied in a butterfly bow in entrance, and the tight bodice boasts closely-fitting sleeves, turned again with black velvet cuffs embroidered in quite a lot of good shades, a small fringed scarf crossing on the bust and tying on the waist behind. White thread stockings and black footwear full the image.

The mere point out of the phrase Switzerland is ample to conjure up a medley of conflicting feelings. Ideas of Nestle’s milk, Peter’s chocolate, Cook dinner’s events, and film post-cards adorned with edelweiss, battle to obliterate recollections of majestic mountains whose hoary peaks pierce the calm blue of a cloudless sky, of sunsets of terrible magnificence, and of sunrises which flood the chilly white Alps with roseate mild, altering the silver of the lakes to burnished gold. Homelier visions come up of wood chalets daintily perched excessive on the mountain facet, or low within the valley, of milk and honey, white butter and black bread, and of fair-haired waitresses in nationwide costume.

Every canton has its distinctive costume.

The peasant girls of Lucerne put on giant flat hats of clean straw, the crown encircled by bows of ribbon interrupted by a bunch of flowers. The tri-coloured skirt barely covers the knee, the place it’s met by white stockings, and the corselet shows lace, embroidery, and brass or silver buttons. The white chemisette vaunts full quick sleeves, and matches as much as the throat, the place it’s often completed with a broad frill, whereas the hair is drawn off the brow and hangs down the again in two plaits.

In Solerne the costume of the female portion of the neighborhood features a white petticoat edged with pink, which simply exhibits beneath a black skirt embroidered with pink, whereas around the neck is knotted a black silk kerchief, the bodice being pink and inexperienced and the chemisette of white muslin with extensive sleeves to the elbow. Snowy muslin evokes the big cap with its gauffered frill, different particulars being white stockings, ribbon garters, and black footwear laced with scarlet.

Probably the prettiest costume of all is to be discovered within the Canton of St. Gall. On Sundays and fete-days it contains a small white muslin cap, lined with inexperienced silk and displaying a crimson crown. The hair is drawn right into a single plait behind the top, mounted with lengthy gold or silver pins. The snowy chemisette finishes with a moderately-sized ruffle on the throat, and disappears right into a velvet stomacher, the little open jacket bearing a border of colored ribbons.

 

The broad sweeping train

I imply the broad sweeping prepare which follows her in all her motions, and kinds fixed employment for a boy who stands behind her to open and unfold to benefit. I have no idea how others are affected at this sight, however I need to confess my eyes are wholly taken up with the web page’s half, and, as for the Queen, I’m not so attentive to something she speaks as to the fitting adjusting of her prepare, lest it ought to probability to journey up her heels, or incommode her as she walks from side to side upon the stage. It’s, for my part, a really odd spectacle to see a Queen venting her passions in a disordered movement, and a bit of boy all of the whereas taking care they don’t ruffle the tail of her robe.

The components that the 2 individuals act on the stage on the identical time are very totally different. The princess is afraid lest she ought to incur the displeasure of the King her father, or lose the hero her lover, while her attendant is barely involved lest she ought to entangle her ft in her petticoat. … In brief, I’d have our conception raised by the dignity of thought and sublimity of expression, somewhat than by a prepare of robes or plume of feathers.”

However right here was no plea for correctness of costume, which could have obviated the distractions ^com-plained of. These days we’ve altered all that, and certainly we had one fashionable play, Frocks and Frills, frankly devoted to decorate because the pivot of its plot. But its creator, Mr. Grundy, by no means offers any very particular directions within the matter of costume, his stage instructions being quite simple, merely stating whether or not a lady needs to be handsomely or poorly dressed.

He declares, nevertheless, that immediately he sees the gamers prepared and “ made up,” he can realise whether or not or not his work goes to achieve success, feeling that if they’ve realised the personalities, and appear like the women and men he has conceived, they may symbolize the characters convincingly. He audaciously advances the dogma, that each girl is at coronary heart a fashion-plate, and I want I might set him down for critical conversion by Mrs. Tree, one among the few whose style in gown on the stage is sort of irreproachable, who by no means makes a mistake in becoming her garments to her half.

 

Similarly represented by a gold button

The final class of all is equally represented by a gold button. The button employed on ceremonial events differs from that worn on daily basis, in that it’s spherical, whereas the latter is rectangular.

One other distinctive function of a Mandarin’s costume is the pectoral  a small piece of fabric hooked up to the breast. Within the case of civil dignitaries it’s embroidered with birds, whereas in that of army authorities it shows quadrupeds.

The official costume consists of a protracted, unfastened robe which opens up the centre and is gorgeously embroidered with dragons or winged serpents. The claws additional testify to the rank of the wearer, these dragons possessing three or 4 being the unique privilege of members of the primary 4 lessons, who’re additionally entitled to put on peacock’s feathers in the back of their hats, and chains of coral, the pink parasol being one other of their prerogatives. Over the under-robe is worn an ample coat of plain silk extending beneath the knees.

This has broad sleeves, which permit a view of tight under-sleeves pertaining to the embroidered gown, and drawn all the way down to cowl the arms, and formed on the ends within the type of a horseshoe. Concerning the waist is a deep embroidered band, that serves as pocket in case of want, whereas a sq., embroidered collar rests on the shoulders and tapers as much as vanishing level on the throat in entrance. The hair hangs in a tightly-plaited pigtail, lengthened by the addition of false tresses, and the attribute hat boasts a brim of satin, velvet, or fur, formed like a saucer, its pink crown surmounted by the all-important button. The footwear are these which a person of place should at all times put on in public.

Sabot formed

Sabot-shaped, with thick soles, they’re coated in silk, satin, or cotton, and there’s no distinction between the correct and left foot. A coveted army distinction is a fox’s tail organized in the back of the hat. Essentially the most sign mark of Imperial favour, nonetheless, is permission to put on a yellow coat.

In his on a regular basis apparel the Mandarin observes none of those elaborate components;. He dons a unfastened gown of silk to the ankles, an umbrella-shaped hat, and heelless footwear with pointed toes that curve barely upwards, contrived from rattan plaited in such a fashion as to permit freely of air flow. In his proper hand he carries a fan and in his left a checked handkerchief of imposing dimensions.

 

The practice of wearing masks

The observe of carrying masks, by non-public people in on a regular basis life, began, as did the style for dominoes, in Venice. There the black satin and velvet masks, nonetheless worn at fancy-dress balls and through Carnival time, first obtained, to be enthusiastically adopted in France and England just a little afterward. Within the latter nation, nonetheless, the usage of the masks by no means degenerated into an abuse as in France, though masks turned so trendy within the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, that society girls deemed them a necessary accent to the toilette. They weren’t at all times worn : generally they had been carried within the hand and held as much as the face solely when essential. The unique elected to look masked on the theatre and different public locations.

However the common carrying of masks turned such a public menace and incentive to crime that in 153 5 an edict was issued in France prohibiting the style excepting throughout Carnival time. Beneath Henry IV. the privilege was restricted to the the Aristocracy, and it was made a capital crime for any commoner to don a masks.

With Louis XIII. the masks fell into non permanent abeyance, solely to be revived with renewed vigour underneath his successor. The primary event upon which Louis XIV. appeared in a masks was on the Palais Cardinal in January 1656. From that date till January 1668 he was an enthusiastic supporter of the vogue. The style, prevalent in 1650, of ladening masks with superfluous trimming was of however brief period. Whereas the craze lasted a ruching of lace adorned the highest, a lace frill the underside, and the eyes had been encrusted with numerous decorations to such an extent that girls, descending from their carriages, had been obliged to be led, it being not possible for them to see. The preposterous vogue impressed Scarron’s ditty :

Dirai-je remark ces fantasques

Oui portent dentelles a leurs masques En chamarrent les trous des yeux

Croyant que leur masque en est mieux.

Like its affiliate the domino

Like its affiliate the domino, the masks progressively pale away with the passing of the eighteenth century. In Italy it loved the longest and most undisputed sway. There it was worn by all members of the group, together with the clergy. The Council of Ten, the Inquisitors, and the members of the Holy Workplace usually, each in Italy and Spain, had been carefully masked when employed upon the train of their horrible capabilities.

Sure unwritten however common and indisput- in a position legal guidelines rule the carrying of masks. Whether or not worn privately or in public, its disguise has always and in all international locations been revered as inviolably sacred. To the masked the best extravagance of language and gesture is permitted. He’s allowed to take pleasure in acrid personalities and proclaim scathing truths which, even when addressed to the monarch himself, go unrebuked. To strike a masks is a critical offence, whereas in no class of society, nonetheless degraded, would anybody dare to unmask a lady. One more prerogative entitles the masked to ask any lady current, whether or not masked or not, to bounce with him, etiquette decreeing that the queen of the land could not declare exemption from this rule. Expensive to romance is the masked highwayman, who flourished till the arrival of railways robbed him of his occupation ; and a grim determine is ever the masked headsman.

The vain efforts of an earlier period in France

Amongst the useless efforts of an precedent days in France was one to kill vogue, whose reckless prodigality had been voted intolerable, and prefer to carry damage to the individuals. A up to date print exhibits the funeral of vogue, the design being of vogue led by 4 girls and adopted by a crowd of workpeople, whereas a sarcophagus within the background bears the next epitaph:—

Right here lies beneath this image, for having deserved it,

Trend, which precipitated a lot insanity in France.

Demise has put superfluity to demise,

And can quickly revive abundance.

However Louis XIV. was so appreciative of the charms of costume that he would distribute all supplies, silks and satins and brocades, to his courtiers, and train some jurisdiction oyer the way in which these have been to be made. Portray on silk and satin was amongst the novelties of his reign, however embroidery nonetheless held the affections of the piodigal, and at a fete at Vaux, Mile, de la Valliere is recorded to have worn a robe of white with golden stars and leaves in Persian sew, and a blue sash tied in a big knot upon her bosom, whereas her truthful waving hair, entwined with flowers and pearls, fell in profusion about her neck and shoulders, and her gloves have been of cream-coloured lace. A gold costume embroidered with gold can also be included within the chronicles, and there have been double borders of gold and silver to most of the under-skirts, which have been product of silk or satin with a protracted prepare which was carried over the left arm.

Bodices have been trimmed with galon, ribbon, and lace, and Madame de Sevigne writes of the “ clear robe,” whose descendant lives to-day in our lace and jet frocks over tissue.

The Duchess of Bourgogne confirmed her good style in a robe of silver tissue with gold flowers outlined with orange and inexperienced, and once more in a gray damask bordered with silver ; and the identical report tells of a mantilla of gold Spanish level lace, and of a coat and skirt of material of silver laced with silver, and worn with diamonds and rubies. “ All werry capital,” as Sam Weller may need noticed, had he solely heard of them.

The fascinating and the specified

Amongst the fascinating and the specified was a blue camlet waistcoat embroidered and fringed with silver. Spanish broadcloth of the very most interesting description was devoted to waistcoats and to the searching and using costumes which have been as a lot masculine as female, and primarily picturesque, with small rapiers to emphasize the manly tone. All hats have been feathered, and the cravats frilled, a state of affairs which excited remark from that irrepressible critic Pepys, who granted it small admiration when he wrote : “ Strolling within the galleries at White Corridor I discover the women of honour dressed of their using garbs with coats and doublets and deep skirts, only for all of the world like mine, and buttoned their doublets as much as the breast, with periwigs and hats, in order that just for a protracted petticoat dragging beneath their males’s coats no person might take them for ladies in any level no matter. It was an odd sight, and a sight which didn’t please me.”

 

A costume for a fancy dress ball

In deciding upon a dressing up for a fancy-dress ball, the primary considered the reveller needs to be to safe the turning into and the acceptable, and to achieve success the selection needs to be primarily influenced by his or her character. I fairly realise the issue to be a tough one, since fortunately we’ve got not the reward given to us to see ourselves as others see us, else ought to we by no means meet a podgy Mephistopheles bulging out of his garments, nor an attenuated Juno, nor a dusky Desdemona, nor a buxom Puck.

Most inventive and felicitous outcomes could also be obtained from copying costumes in previous footage ; and visits to the Nationwide Gallery, and a day spent on the Wallace Assortment, will show them-selves without delay a revenue and a pleasure, and a straightforward information in the direction of the collection of the suitable gown. It’s advisable on such events to be accompanied by the type good friend who, with out worry to danger a reproach, will counsel with all knowledge, and mood your ambitions to your character.

An admirable merchandise within the programme of the fancy-dress ball is the quadrille, the lancers, or the cotillon, which shall be danced by individuals clad in costumes of the identical interval, such concord being a particular pleasure to the beholder, who could nonetheless additionally glean some leisure from the spectacle of the nineteenth-century Columbine hobnobbing with the fourteenth-century monk ; and should little question get some satisfaction from the sight of Cleopatra within the arms of the Satan.

However I’ll linger now not evenly within the realms of fancy gown, however penetrate the darkish depths of Dominoes and Masks, leaving the various illustra-tions in these pages culled from the centuries to talk the final phrase of choice with most fluent and expressive tongue.

OF DOMINOES AND MASKS

ITALIAN in conception, the domino is of ecclesiastical origin, and as such has retained its monkish side all through the various modifications rung by style. In its primitive kind it consisted of a protracted, unfastened gown of black materials with a cowl attachment which utterly coated the top. Throughout the center ages, and, in actual fact, as late because the sixteenth century, it constituted the favored travelling costume of these engaged upon secret missions. Disguised within the behavior frequent to the numerous hordes of monks and different pious mendicants who infested the nation, it was a straightforward matter to go, unnoticed, from finish to finish of Europe, the garb defending its wearer and making certain him immunity from, criticism or inquiry.

 

The ceremonial costume of the women

The ceremonial costume of the ladies of Simbirsk could be very peculiar. Excessive and sq., the  hat is of velvet, with a detailed brim composed of a broad band of white sheep’s wool drawn down over the brows, giving the wearer a barely reducing expression. A bathe of gilt cash jangles within the ears, and the long-sleeved white tunic matches tightly as much as the throat and ceases abruptly on the knees, the place it’s met by leggings of white felt cross-gartered your entire distance, the garters doing double obligation, as they function helps for the low footwear. Probably the most extraordinary and attribute function of your entire rest room is a big sq. breast-plate of white steel lined with items of cash and copper discs, which mix the roles of amulets and ornaments. This odd and warrior-like ornament is split throughout the centre, and so kinds two separate parts, the higher being so organized that it laps over the underneath, when rendered essential by the actions of the physique. As well as, a small silver cross is worn suspended from a ribbon handed around the neck.

Particularly attention-grabbing by cause of the actual fact

Specifically attention-grabbing by cause of the truth that Nijni Novgorod is the scene of an important honest on this planet, the costume of the ladies of the district consists of a fringed and embroidered scarf which envelops the pinnacle and shoulders and is pinned underneath the chin. As is barely to be anticipated, fur performs a component within the trimming. The huge jacket reaches to the waist, and divulges fur cuffs and an edging of fur in regards to the backside and up the fronts. Not fairly ankle size, the brocade skirt is bordered with fringe, the plain or brocaded under-skirt descending to the bottom. Each skirts are immensely huge, and counsel the presence of a hooped petticoat.

The scarf and outer jacket eliminated, there are enticing revelations of a sleeveless corsage of brocade and a white chemisette conspicuous for sleeves that puff with exaggeration on the shoulder and once more under the elbow, lastly coming in tightly on the wrist and ending in frills. The jewelry, as is common in Russia, is of a ponderous kind, and is hottest within the type of chains, necklaces, and finger- and earrings.

The ladies of the folks nonetheless plaster their faces crudely with white and pink cosmetics : a mode as soon as in favour with the higher lessons, however now condemned as distinctly dangerous kind and savouring of barbarity.

I can not depart Russia with out some reference to the Jews, who write now as ever an necessary chapter of their historical past.