In Switzerland black is allowed on festival garb

In Switzerland black is allowed on competition garb, and on Sundays the ladies put on black within the mornings and alter to colors within the night. Within the Berne Canton the ladies normally show a black lace cap, formed like a fan and tied beneath the chin, accompanying this with lengthy inexperienced gloves ; and in on a regular basis life their costume contains a blue or black petticoat reaching to the ankles,

scolloped on the border with purple or white, accomplished with a white chemisette excessive to the throat, with full brief sleeves revealed beneath a brief sleeveless jacket. On their heads are straw hats, and on their legs and ft purple stockings with black clocks and heel-less footwear, and their hair is worn hanging down in two lengthy plaits.

Costume has by means of the ages been allowed to indicate the married or single state of its wearer. In Rome the purple-bordered toga and the segmentum—regarding which there was some dialogue, because it has been individually de-scribed as a necklace, a fringe, and an embroidered ribbon—would grace the matron. The Roman bride wore a purple veil or flamen on her wedding- day ; and in Greece the married lady parted her hair in entrance in a unique trend from that of the maids ; and to today in some elements of the Grecian Islands brides put on the flame-coloured veil, and observe the customized of placing a patch of gold-leaf on the face. The trendy bride of Corfu illustrated at web page 126 is carrying a skirt of purple and an apron of blue, and a brief blue corselet buckled with gold ; her small purple velvet coat is traced with gold, and gold ornaments grasp around her neck and maintain the white chemisette throughout the bust. Ribbons entwine her hair with garlands of flowers, and over these a delicate white veil hangs to the waist, ribbons once more fluttering their class from waist to hem. .

Italy the peasants have ornaments

In numerous elements of Italy the peasants have ornaments handed down from era to generation, and as a gift to every succeeding bride an additional chain or jewel is added, forming a sentimental file of lineage which solely probably the most devastating poverty induces the possessor to half with.

The observe of weaving a wedding-veil is an outdated one, relationship from the instances of historic Greece. A bride of Attica is immortalised in a protracted flowing gown of clinging rose color, with a girdle of gold wire knotted and tasselled. Her hair is intently curled around the nape of her neck, and drawn up on the again into a large meshed web, the entrance banded with a golden fillet engraved with a Grecian key sample, whence floats a clear white veil to the bottom.

 

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Tale XXV-XXVI

TALE XXV.

A King of Arabia commanded his ministers to double the stipend of some one, as a result of he wras fixed in his attendance and at all times attentive to Ills responsibility, while the remainder of the courtiers have been dissipated of their manners and negligent of their enterprise. A person of penetration listening to this, remarked, that the excessive ranks of servants within the courtroom of Heaven are conferred in the identical method.

If an individual is vigilant within the service of a monarch throughout two days, on the third day he will definitely be regarded with kindness. The honest worshippers entertain expectation that they shall not return from the edge of God unrewrarded. Obedience insures greatness, while disobedience results in a repulse: whosoever possessetli the qualities of righteousness, placeth his head on the edge of obedience.

TALE XXVI.

They inform a narrative of an oppressor, who bought firewood from the poor by pressure, and gave it gratuitously to the wealthy. A considered man passing that manner stated, “ You’re a snake that bites each one you see ; or an owl that destroys each place the place you sit: though your injustice could go unpunished amongst us, it won’t escape the statement of that God to whom all secrets and techniques are revealed. Injure not the inhabitants of this world, that the sighs of the oppressed could not ascend to Heaven.”

The oppressor was displeased at his phrases, frowned on him, and took no additional discover of him, till one evening, when hearth, issuing from the kitchen, caught the inventory of wooden and consumed all his items, when his smooth mattress turned a seat of heat ashes. It occurred that this identical considered individual passing by, and listening to him say to his buddies, “ I do know not from whence this fireplace fell upon my home,” replied, “ From the smoke of the hearts of the poor.” Watch out for the groans of the wounded souls, for the reason that inward sore will at size get away; oppress to not the utmost a single coronary heart, for a single sigh has energy to overset an entire. On the crown of Kaikusrou was the next inscription : ‘For what number of years throughout what house of time shall males go over my grave ? As the dominion got here to me by succession, in like method shall it go to the arms of others?’

 

My comrades informed

One among my comrades knowledgeable him how issues stood, saying, “ Such an one hath positively resolved to spend the rest of his life in devotion, and to look at silence ; comply with his instance, if you’re ready and preserve him firm.” He replied, “ I swear by the good God, and by our lengthy uninterrupted friendship, that I’ll neither breathe nor stir a step till he hath answered along with his accustomed freedom ; for it’s folly to misery our associates, when an thoughtless oath could be simply expiated. It’s opposite to justice, and reverse to the emotions of the sensible, that the sword of Alee ought to stay within the scabbard, or that the tongue of Sady ought to cleave to the roof of the mouth. To what shall be likened the tongue in a person’s mouth ? It’s the key of the treasury of knowledge: when the door is shut, who can uncover whether or not he offers in jewels Slier in small wares ? Though, within the estimation of the sensible, silence is commendable, but at a correct season free speech is preferable. Two issues point out an obscure understanding: to be silent after we should converse, and to talk after we needs to be silent.”

Restrain my tongue froirwspeaking

To be transient: I used to be not capable of restrain my tongue froirwspeaking to him: I assumed it inhuman to show my face from him, as a result of he was an agreeable and honest pal. While you decide to battle, make certain both that you’re stronger than your adversary, or that you’ve a swifter pair of heels. Thus by way of necessity I spoke, and went overseas in good humour. It was the season of spring, the air was temperate and the rose in full bloom. The vestments of the timber resembled the festive clothes of the lucky. It was midspring, when the nightingales have been chanting from the pulpits of the branches ; the rose decked with pearly dew, like blushes on the cheek of a chiding mistress. It occurred as soon as that I used to be benighted in a backyard in firm with certainly one of my associates.

The spot was pleasant, the timber interwined ; you’ll have mentioned that the earth was bedecked with glass spangles, and that the knot of the Pleiades was suspended from the department of the vine. A backyard with a working stream, and timber from whence birds have been warbling melodious strains ; that full of tulips of varied hues, these loaded with fruits of a number of varieties. Underneath the shade of its timber the zephyr had unfold the variegated carpet.

Within the morning, when the need to return dwelling overcame our inclination for remaining, I noticed in his lap a set of roses, odoriferous herbs, and hyacinths, which he had meant to hold to city. I mentioned, “You aren’t ignorant that the flower of the backyard quickly fadeth, and that the enjoyment of the rose-bush is however of a brief continuance ; and the sages have declared, that the guts ought to not be set upon something that’s transitory.” He requested, “ What course is then to be pursued?” I replied, “ I’m able to type a e book of roses, which is able to delight the beholders and gratify those that are current, whose leaves the tyrannic arm of the autumnal blasts can by no means have an effect on, nor injure the blossoms of its spring.

Christine of France

Christine of France, we’re advised by Jacob the bibhophilist, wore a “ justaucorps ” embroidered in gold and studded with valuable stones ; this was a exceptional form, not defining the waist in any respect, and completed off with an indented basque.

The primary point out of what could rightly be termed the corset is on the finish of the fourteenth century, when the attire lower low within the entrance launched by Isabella of Bavaria had been liable for the innovation, and made fashionable the carrying of the brand new garment, which was made in all types of supplies laced both on the entrance or on the again.

On the finish of the fifteenth century the basquine was adopted, a corset of stout linen or cotton with a busk of wooden or steel on the entrance. Rabelais says, “The women on the Courtroom of Francis I. wore basquines, and a silk camlet over their chemises,” and it’s for sure that they incurred the displeasure of the preachers of the day; certainly Charles IX. and Henry III. issued a number of stringent legal guidelines with regard to the corset, being satisfied that it was extremely injurious to the well being of its wearers, and the corps pique which was worn on this reign was neither extra nor lower than an instrument of torture, compressing the physique into a tough unyielding mould, the splinters of wooden usually tearing the pores and skin. Till the top of the sixteenth century the tailor had the monopoly of corset-making, and his strategies appear to have been something however tender. It was within the seventeenth century that Ben Jonson pathetically complained

The whalebone man,

Who quilts the our bodies I’ve depart to span.

Within the reign of Louis XV. corsets had been lower away on the hips and laced on the again, the lengthy busks of wooden or metal being solely within the entrance ; whalebone was used to stiffen the corset, which was typically made in two items and laced beneath the arms, and it was invariably provided with shoulder-straps, and started in these days to take unto itself such wealthy supplies as brocade and satin embroidered in gold chenille or silk.

The Directoire interval produced a traditional zone worn outdoors the gown, a mode that quickly gave place to the boneless corset, a fleeting fancy, for all costume worn within the time of Louis XVI. owes its best attraction to the stays, the bodices being lower into lengthy factors and fitted tightly from bust to waist. In some cases these bodices had been sewn on to the determine of the wearer after the stays had been laced to their excessive restrict, and plenty of of Hogarth’s figures show the affect of the very stiff keep, the figures being erect in an uncomfortable diploma, for it’s inconceivable to think about any human creature reaching such excellence of carriage with out appreciable help from with out, and a few in-convenience from inside.

 

Behold the mercy and kindness of God

Behold the mercy and kindness of God, He’s himself ashamed that His servant hath sinned! Those that consistently reside on the temple of His glory, confess the insufficiency of their worship, saying,

“Now we have not worshipped Thee within the method that Thou oughtest to be served.” They usually who would describe the type of His magnificence are wrapt in amazement, declaring, “ Now we have not identified Thee as Thou oughtest to be identified.” If anybody ought to require me to explain him, how shall the disheartened describe that which hath no kind? The lovers are slain by the beloved, and no voice proceedeth from the useless. A religious man in deep contemplation, together with his head reclining on the bosom of meditation, was immersed within the ocean of imaginative and prescient. When he recovered from that state, considered one of his companions, by means of pleasantry, mentioned, “ What miraculous current have you ever introduced us from this backyard which you could have been visiting ?

He answered. It was my intention, that after I reached the rose-bush, I’d fill my lap with flowers, for presents to my associates ; however after I got here to the spot, the odour so overpowered my senses that my skirt dropt out of my fingers.” zero chicken of the desert, be taught thou love of the moth, who being burnt expireth with no sigh. They who faux to learn are ignorant, for they who’ve identified Him haven’t but recovered their senses. zero, Thou artwork past the attain of creativeness, conjecture, or thought; surpassing all that has been associated, and excelling every part that I’ve heard or learn.

Tlie banquet is concluded, and the interval of life is arrived. 1 proceed describing Thee the identical as on the graduation.

The Virtues of the Monarch of Islamism. Could God perpetuate his reign!

The beneficial point out of Sady

The beneficial point out of Sady which has fallen from the mouths of individuals typically, and the celebrity of his sayings that has unfold over the entire floor of the globe, in order that the phrases of his pleasant pen are eaten like sugar ; and the worth given to scraps of writings, insomuch that they move present like payments of change ; all this can’t be ascribed to the perfection of his personal benefit and eloquence, however is owing to the monarch of the earth, who’s axis of the revolution of time, the consultant of Solomon, the defender of the devoted, the mighty king of kings, the illustrious At&buk Mozuffar-ud- deen Aboobukr, the son of Unhappy, the son of Zungy, the shadow of God on earth ; approve him, zero Lord, and grant his wishes ! He regarded me with the attention of kindness, loaded me with commendation, and confirmed a honest attachment; and subsequently, for his sake, individuals of all descriptions have taken a flowery to me ; for mankind readily undertake the feelings of their King. From the time, that you’ve regarded kindly on my humble state, my deserves are extra manifest than the solar.

The Calico ball proclaims itself preeminently

The Calico ball proclaims itself pre-eminently thrifty in its intention, and remarkably fairly results could also be obtained with cotton materials, if enough intelligence be used within the design of the attire. To realize the impact of an “ outdated print,” white crepe cotton and pale blue sateen, with a straw bonnet banded with the blue and a pink rose beneath, could also be really useful as helpful components. The “ Marcus Stone ” woman, as we familiarly name a maiden clad in white muslin with a frilled fichu, is one other heroine whose frock lends itself readily to low cost materials, and we’ve got at all times at our disposal the ever-popular pink, white, and blue flag, but bunting isn’t essentially the most com-fortable of materials for the enthusiastic dancer. The embodiment of the Seasons, though consider-ably hackneyed, might safely be achieved with cottons and muslins and swansdown, leaves, and flowers ; and a really efficient gown is the Rainbow, through which rainbow crepe of Japanese manufacture is a perfect assistant.

Chiffon is indispensable to the success of many a frock. In a gown which shall signify Smoke, as an illustration, the chiffon should be of a dark- gray tone, and yards and yards must be wound concerning the determine and the top, the sleeves being wing-shaped, the stockings and footwear to match. “ Flames ” might also be embodied with orange-red and yellow chiffon, draped spherical with liberality, it being understood in each these instances skinny, tightly-fitting petticoat and under-bodice be provided of pongee to match the chiffon.

A good suggestion for a fancy- gown ball, if not one based mostly maybe upon the truest f spirit of poetry, is“Greens”; chiffon or silk of many shades of inexperienced, with a headdress within the form of a cabbage.        Very profitable,

although not cheap, is the Oyster gown, composed of a really skinny white satin lined with pink satin, adorned at discretion with fringes of pearls, whereas a pink chiffon chemi-sette is gauged to admiration upon the draped white satin bodice, and the hairstyle of the wearer is surmounted by a coronet of oyster shells set on a bandeau of pale-pink chiffon, with a floating veil of a deeper pink.

The White Oueen from Alice

The White Oueen from Alice in Wonderland may be cheaply and sufficiently represented by a frock of white calico, with the hooped skirt set in a succession of thickly padded rolls, the hair web of white chenille, surmounted by a crown of white cardboard painted with the title. Ingenious, however maybe not very turning into, is a gown of white linen, with a giant clock painted in the course of the skirt, the fingers pointing to, say, 5 A.M., with the plain function of suggesting that the wearer is “ Higher late than by no means.” A personality which by no means fails to draw on the homosexual carnival is Mephistopheles, the female or masculine selection being alike adopted with avidity, in vivid pink, feather within the cap, and a bit shoulder-cape, and spangles full.

A very good costume for a person is the Druid, when he can organize voluminous white draperies as he’ll, and take unto himself the freedom of the mistletoe wreath. A well-liked behavior prevails of embodying the names of sure illustrated journals, and representing the titles of some books. Some daring innovator suggests labelling himself as a Physician, and vows he represents the “ Darkish Lantern,” and the precept opens up a big discipline for choice. Why mustn’t an abnormal evening-dress-coated gentleman be labelled “ The Sphinx’s Lawyer,” and “ The Coming Race ” be expressed by the Oxford and Cambridge crews limned on satin; and “The Imaginative Man” might need a pair of wings mounted to the shoulders of his abnormal broadcloth, an indication that he imagines himself an angel. The bottom is fruitful of suggestion.

 

A Public Kuan

A spot the place retailers coogregate the place wealth Takes many kinds is bartered, purchased, and bought;

Is earned by labour, flung away on probability,

Exchanged, computed, watched with keen eyes,

Weighed, balanced, gained, and scattered o’er the globe.—MS.

THE Khans, or Caravanserais of the East, are as purely oriental of their character because the Mosques in whose rapid neighbourhood they’re usually located, or the Bazars which they provide with merchandise.

The Caravanserai

The Caravanserai, cr lodging of the caravan, is a big quadrangular courtroom, surrounded by stone buildings, solidly massed, and presenting a lot the looks of the internal cloisters of a monastery. The flats on the basement function counting-houses for the retailers, one solely being reserved as a coflee- kiosque, for the lodging of the tenants of the Khan, which all the time has a fantastic fountain within the centre of its paved courtroom, and is closed two hours earlier than midnight by a pair of large gates; beside one in all which is the little hut of the Khanjhi, who’s answerable for all comers and goers after that point, till day-break ; a precaution rendered extremely obligatory by the immense worth of the merchandise which is regularly contained in these institutions.

The higher story of the constructing is confronted by an open gallery, supported on arches, which stretches spherical the whole sq., and is reached by exterior flights of stone steps, located at two of its angles; and from this gallery open the store-rooms of the retailers, which arc usually crammed with hags of uncooked silk, European cottons, bales of wealthy stuffs, tobaccos, spices, arms—and, in brief, all essentially the most valuable articles of Jap visitors.

It should not, nevertheless, be imagined that the articles right here described arc to be discovered promiscuously in each Khan; quite the opposite, the silk-merehants have their very own peculiar rendezvous; the hyperbolical Persians pile their gold and silver stuffs aside; and the gebeli-dealcrs kind their numerous tobaccos in a caravanserai of their very own; whereas the mere traveller, pilgrim, and dervish, take up their abode in frequent in very inferior Khans, the place warmth, vermin, and filth arc their sure companions; and the place the acquaintanceless European, pushed to this useful resource in cities the place no motels exist, is initiated right into a thousand private miseries, of which he may beforehand have fashioned no thought.

The Khan of the silk-merchants at Broussa in Asia Minor is a really stunning institution, with a noble gate-way, opening from the bazar of the town, finely set in a frame-work of mosaiccd porcelain; whereas its Caravanserai for pilgrims is wretched within the excessive. And the identical distinction is seen in these of Constantinople itself, the place dervishes, santons, and different wayfarers, who can afford to pay for his or her scanty lodging, and but extra scanty fare, depart behind them traces of dysfunction and need of cleanliness, which arc, certainly, nearly sufficient to problem the ability of all of the khanjhis of the town to obliterate.

 

Miss Ellen Terry

Miss Ellen Terry, as Volumnia, additionally personified dignity, whether or not in a free garb of purple silk, with a mantle of yellow and brown falling from a diadem-shaped head-dress set with turquoise, or when, after her profitable pleading together with her son, she threw apart her garb of woeful black, and was radiant in a draped tunic embroidered in pink and gold, with gold ornaments around her arms and turquoise chains upon her neck.

The image of Rome beneath Nero, Mr. Tree personally invested with a purposeful effeminacy, and his tunics and garlands of flowers accentuated the poet within the man. Mrs. Tree confirmed Agrippina at her finest beneath the affect of many-coloured veils, violet and pink being the dominant notes ; and two gracious footage rise earlier than my eyes as I write, of Miss Constance Collier as Poppasa in white, with a thick wreath of scarlet poppies round her dusky head, and of Miss Dorothea Baird in peach color, with lilacs entwined in her truthful hair.

Amongst different notable figures

Amongst different notable figures which dwell in my reminiscence is Miss Lily Hanbury as Refrain in Henry V., produced by Lewis Waller, whose mien in armour, bearing a high quality cloak lined with Venetian pink, breathed the important spirit of martial power. Miss Hanbury regarded great in draperies of sensible pink over white, standing on a pedestal towards a black background. And the key of the admirable conduct of her folds was that the white under-dress of crepe de chine was wrung when moist, and spherical this have been wound seventeen yards of blood-red crepe. With this splendid triumph of persona Miss Hanbury might class her look as Girl Blessington in Mr. Tree’s manufacturing, The hast of the Dandies, when she appeared in a pale-blue satin robe, very full around the waist, with a white chiffon double-frilled fichu over her shoulders, and a bonnet bearing a lace veil pendent over the again, and clusters of pink roses resting beneath the brim in entrance. The Final of the Dandies was, because it ought to have been, fairly a sncces de costume, and it could be written down beneath this facet to the credit score of Percy Anderson.

This jogs my memory of the illustrations which adorn this chapter. Firstly, of George Alexander in Man Domville, that subtly intelligent play by Henry James, which got here earlier than its time and died of its untimely delivery. Sombre black is the gown chosen by this English Protestant gentleman about to take holy orders within the latter a part of the eighteenth century.

 

Fifteenth century the chemisette

Within the fifteenth century the chemisette to some extent yielded place to the bodice excessive on the neck and mounted on the again, completed by a small linen kerchief tied within the entrance. A plain full woollen petticoat was in vogue, and the sleeves have been turned again with pleated cuffs, the choice in headgear being allowed between an in depth hood or kerchief and a plain hat of straw.

Within the reign of Edward IV. the peasant girls reverted most properly to the bodice, which was reduce low on the neck in a round kind; the plain skirts have been gathered on the waist, and over a white linen cap they positioned a hood and cape reduce in a single piece.

Within the days when the best widower was attaining his conjugal document, an previous country-man is described as sporting a “ buttoned cap ” (one with flaps over the ears, turned up and mounted with a button), a “ lockram falling band, a slim turned- down collar of coarse linen—coarse however clear, a russet-coat ; a white belt of horse disguise, proper horse collar white leather-based ; an in depth spherical breech of russet sheep’s-wool, with an extended inventory of white kersey, and a excessive shoe with yellow buckles.” A reasonably fellow, I’m satisfied.

On this reign, too, decorative braid discovered its place on the costumes of the peasant girls, whose bodices, reduce sq. and edged with braid, have been laced up on the again. Nevertheless, novelty, which is ever fascinating, was obtained by limiting the bodices, elevating the waists, and tightening the total sleeves on the wrists, the place they have been completed with a small frill.

Braid later gained additional patronage, and within the reign of Mary was allowed the privilege of orna-menting the total petticoats, when the closely-fitting bodices have been nonetheless laced in V-shape and flaunted an up-standing collar of Medici tendency reduce in a single with revers. On the highest of the sleeves was a padded roll, and upon the top a quaint cap displayed a small level in entrance, and bore an in depth resemblance within the crown to the penny bun.

Elizabethan peasant lady’s gown

The early Elizabethan peasant lady’s gown consisted of a double skirt, the below one among serge, full, the higher one with braid around the hem, made in a contrasting shade, and folded again to kind a panier. The tight-fitting bodice had a pointed plastron edged with ribbon on both aspect, and the bodice was certain on the hem with ribbon, which tied in a bow on the waist, a bigger bow showing on the bust, whereas around the neck a gauffered frill outspread itself with stiff significance. The sleeves have been full, and the top was lined with a garden cap, the crown of which was full, and the curtain, turning again in entrance, was trimmed with lace. One more type of gown worn at this era had a full skirt braided around the hem and an higher skirt with a wider braid, the square-cut bodice, additionally braided, being completed with a turned-down linen collar. The sleeves displayed double puffs to the elbow, thence becoming tightly to the wrist, and braid once more appeared on the mob-cap of garden, and on the hem of the garden apron.

 

The fete dress of the women of Torjok

Nonetheless extra lovely and luxurious is the fete gown of the ladies of Torjok. They put on a singular head-dress often called kokoschink, which, actually translated, signifies the crest of a hen, the why and wherefore of the title being a riddle past the facility of the typical intelligence to resolve. Modelled on the strains of a reversed funnel, the tall slender crown of the kokoschink is white, encircled by slim bands of gold, and surmounted within the case of married ladies by a metallic decoration which can be triangular, oval, spherical, or crescentshaped., The one rule from which no departure could also be made is that the crown be completely vertical, whereas the crown frequent to the spinster of the neighborhood slants abruptly in direction of the entrance. All with out exception show a brim composed of an excellent frill of white lace encrusted with seed pearls, and an unlimited veil of white gauze embroidered and edged with gold, which is hooked up to the highest of the kokoschink and floats over the shoulders, the 2 factors dipping to the touch the bottom at both aspect.

These veils are usually not, as may simply be supposed, of Mohammedan origin, nor are they even remotely related to romance. As a matter of truth, nothing might nicely be extra prosaic than their historical past, for they had been first adopted as a safety towards the plague of flies with which the district is infested in heat climate.

Pre-eminently picturesque, the costume they shroud reveals a skirt of such beneficiant proportions as to recall recollections of the crinoline. That is of silk, and buttons down the entrance, and it isn’t solely edged with gold, however bears an all-over sample traced in gold galon. The free sleeveless jacket terminates beneath the waist, the place it stands out stiffly, and is of comparable texture, handled in equally lavish type with gold, the massive leg-o’-mutton sleeves belonging to the white chemisette being richly embroidered in gold thread. The throat is hidden by an unyielding cravat of white taffetas dominated with high-quality gold twine, the brief ends crossed underneath the chin ; and the footwear are of morocco or velvet, with a design labored in gold threads.

In winter the veil is deserted in favour

In winter the veil is deserted in favour of a scarf of white taffetas fringed with gold, worn over a modified model of the summer season kokoschink, in pale blue silk, embroidered with seed pearls and gold. The all-enveloping greatcoat is of material or velvet, edged with fur, and lapped nicely over on the best aspect, the place it fastens close to the shoulder solely. A function of the wrap is the sleeve, which is slim and of irregular size, terminating beneath the knees in a fur cuff, no trace being allowed to transpire of the fingers thus jealously guarded from the unwelcome attentions of frost.